Fabric structure and treatment



y 1936-1 J. BEBlE ETYAL FABRiC STRUCTURE AND TREATMENT Filed April 24,1933 INVENTORS L/ULE5 BEE/E GEORGE DOELL uvc I ATTORNEY.

' companied ,by a desired resistance to water or Patented May 19, 1936PATENT OFFICE meme STRUCTURE AND TREATMENT Jules Bebie and George L.Doelling, St. Louis, Mo.,' assignors to Rice-Stix Dry Goods 00.,

St. Louis, Mo., a corporation of Missouri Application April 24, 1933,Serial No. 667,542

' 3 Claims. (01. 91-68) This invention relates to improvements infabrie'structures and treatment, and more particularly to improvedproducts and processes involvin the use of cementitious orbondingsubstances in combination with fibrous materials such as leather, cloth,and textiles generally.

In various arts and industries there exists a necessity or desirabilityfor treating fibrous materials to attain stiflening or strengtheningeffects which process may be advantageously accertain chemicals. In manyinstances textile fabrics may be advantageously treated -to attain astifiening effect considerably short of an objectionable brittleness,this result being desirably so attained that repeated flexing of thetreated textile fabric will not seriously impair the characteristics ofthe material. In the case of fabrics which, by their nature,arerepeatedly sub-, jectedto cleaning operations, such as washing I andironing, it is necessary that the stiffening materialremain, over a longperiod of time, substantially unaffected by water or boilingtemperatures, and likewise be unaffected by temperatures of the orderincident to the ironing of laundered goods. In the latter'case, thetreating material employed is preferably of such nature as not to beforced by ironing pressure or otherwise, through the treated cloth, andso that the original colorand appearance of the textile is retainedthroughout its useful life. In addition to meeting a demand for adhesiveand/or stiffening compounds fulfilling the requirements noted, incombination with washabletextile fabrics and wearing apparel generally,the present invention objectively contemplates an application of itsprinciples, technique and materials, to industrial and mechanical usesgenerally.

The object of the present invention may be generally stated'as theprovision of cementitious oradhesive thermoplastic materials, as well asmethods of compoundingand applying such materials. to fabrics, inkeeping with the requirements heretofore noted.

A further object of the invention is attained in the provision of acementing and bonding plastic,

.01? such a nature as to be applicable to fabrics generally, and textilematerials in particular,

' and of such nature that it may be employed, se-

lectively, either as an impregnating material for.

more or less complete...incorporatio'n with the associated fabric, or,for other uses, may be employed in the form of a surflcial film offabriccementing or bonding substance possessing, optionally, acontrollable fabric-stiffening eflect.

A further object of the invention is attained in an improved fabriccement or impregnant 'of such physical characteristics as to withstandrepeated flexing; a material such as not to flow when subjected tomoderately high temperatures, 5 and which will not crack or peel from afabric or textile with which it is employed as a coating.

Yet another object -of the invention, stated more particularly withrespect to the examples selected for present illustration, is attainedin an improved fabric-bonding, stiffening and cementing material, whichis water insoluble and of such a nature that its bond with a layer offabric or textile is unimpaired by repeated exposure,

. either to water alone, or to alkaline solutions of substantialstrength, such as are often employedin washing and laundering.

A still further object of the invention is attained in a Waterproofing,bonding or cementing material possessing the characteristics of theforegoing objects, and yet which is light, or practically white incolor, so that when employed in or on either white or colored textiles,its presence will not materially alter the normal appearance or color ofthe associated fabric. of the present object further includes a materialwhich will not alter its original light color, or other characteristics,under the influence of heat or the action of the more common chemicals.

An additional objectis attained in a material and process for treatingfibrous material gener-- ally, and textile materials in particular,whereby such materials may not only be protected against absorption ofdirectly applied moisture, but may be treated, according to the methodsand with the materials hereinafter described, in such a manner as tocontrol the known affim'ty of certain of such materials for atmosphericmoisture.

Stated with more particularity than in the foregoing objects, thepresent invention is at- 4 tained in an improved waterproofing,cementing, bonding and stiffening material, preferably employing as abase, an aromatic cellulose ether, with or without the addition ofplasticizers and pigments or filling materials, according to the useintended.

Further objects and advantages of the invention will appear from thefollowing description, considered in connection with the accompanyingdrawing of an exemplary embodiment of the invention.

In the drawing, Fig. 1 is a plan view of a collar,

to which the present invention is applied for retaining the shape of the'collar and preventing wrinkling and distortionthereof throughout its 5The fullest attainment 25 useful life; Fig. 2 is a fragmentary marginalelevation of the collar of Fig. 1, showing the several plies of thecollar separated in order to reveal the preferred space relation of theplies of treated and untreated fabric comprising the collar, and Fig. 3is a transverse section of the collar of Fig. 1, as viewed along line3-3 thereof.

According to prevailing practice in the manulstration, one upon another,and stitched by a marginal line of stitching 5. The stitching, until thetime of attaching the collar to a shirt or neckband, usually extendsonly along the longitudinal margin 6, and the two end margins l and 8 ofthe collar, leaving open the opposite longitudinal margin 9. Thus, untilthe margin 9 is closed by a line of stitches, say in securing the collarto the neckband or shirt, the collar is in the nature of a multiple plyenvelope and may be selectively turned inside out or right side out, inorder to meet the various requirements of stitching and shaping thecollar during the various processes of its production, according toprevailing methods of collar and shirt production;

The invention is herein described, by way of ex ample Only, p ct to thetreatment of a collar; it will, however, be understood that'nofl merelycollars, but also practically many types of cuffs, center facings orpleats, neckbands and collar bands of/either single or multiple ply typemay be treated according to the method and with the materials'presentlyto be detailed. Further, the materials and processes identified with thepresent invention are applicable for the waterproofing of fabricsgenerally, by way of example, to wearing apparel such as shirts andadjuncts thereof, to the roll collars of pajamas, the treatment of shoesand millinery, to mention only a few of the possible applications of thepresent materials in the treatment of textiles.

It is also within the intendment of the present invention to utilize thetechnique and materials in the treatment of industrial fabricsgenerally, and textiles in particular, the use of the treating materialsnot being restricted to the creation of a surficial adhesive, butbeingimportantly susceptible of use as impregnating substances.

As far as the utility of the present invention is concerned, theadhesives and/or impregnating materials hereinafter referred to, may beapplied to the fabric entirely by manual operation. It is preferredhowever to employ, for the coating of fabric or particularly textilematerials, any suitable apparatus capable of mechanically delivering tothe surface of the fabric to be coated, the adhesive or impregnatingmaterial. It is, of course, desirable that the discharge of suchmaterial onto the fabric, proceed at a substantially uniform rate, andwhile the coating material is kept at a uniform viscosity, thusconducing to a deposit of an .even amount of the treating substance. Bypreference, a machine is employed for this purpose which, forming ofitself no part of the present invention, need not be described in detailas'we do not desire to be restricted to specific apparatus for thispurpose. It is to be noted, however, in mechanically effecting an evenrate and,

depth of deposit of the treating material on the fabric, we prefer notto employ the usual calendering equipment as tending, due to thepressures involved, to force the treating material through the cloth.Accordingly, there is more desirably employed, as for the treatment oftextiles for collars, cufis, shirting and the like, a spreading agency,between which and the cloth there is effected a. relative movement toeffect an even surface deposit of the viscous treating material onthe-fabric.

In the case of textiles with. which a single layer of the treatingmaterial is to be utilized, such layer is most advantageously applied tothe under or concealed surfaceof the fabric. In the case of a multipleply fabric structure, such as characterizes the production of collars,cuffs,.center pleats, shirtbosoms, etc., we prefer to apply a surficialcoating of the treating material at least to the inner surface of theexposed ply, and to the outermost surface of the adjacent ply of thestructure. This arrangement is illustrated by Figs. 2 and 3 showing apreferred application of the material to certain of the plies of a.fold-over type of collar. The details of the structure of the collar'illustrated by way of example 'are equally applicable to theconstruction of cuffs, center.

pleats, and any other multiple ply garments, gar,- ment items or garmentadjuncts.

Referring now to the elements of structure more particularly illustratedby Figs. 2 and 3 of the present drawing, the top or exposed ply of the.collar ls indicated at I0, on the inner or unfinished side of;.,whichis disposed a layer of cementing and/or stiffening substance II. Theinterliner, constitutingan intermediate member of the finished'collar,is shown at I2 and on the surface of the interliner nearsttheply I0, isa layer of material I3 which may bathe same as that constituting thelayer I I. and the adjacent surface of the layer 12 are shown asuncoated; the latter two surfaces may, however, if desired, be providedwith the same coating material, or one similar'to that employed in thelayers II and I3 whereby to enhance the stiffening effect producedaccording to the present invention. Since the structure, say of aneckband or cuff of multiple ply type, may be-.-essentially the same asthe multiple ply collar construction illustrated, it is not regarded asnecessary to illustrate or describe in detail the latter applications.

It will be understood that in the case of a collar for example, afterthe collar is stitched, as shown, it may besubjected to any of the-usualpressing treatments, accompanied by the applicationof heat. It may beindicated that the ironing or pressing processes now prevailingrequireno modification for the finish operations of collars or othergarment adjuncts formed according to the present invention. After thecollar is completed, and turned right side out, and is subjected to heatand pressure as by ironing, the layers I I and I3 are rendered plastic.Due to the thermoplastic nature of the material constituting theselayers,

they are adhesively united with eachother and to the layers of cloth bywhich they are carried, so that, upon finishing the collar according tothe usual steps, several or all of the plies thereof become, in effect,a structural unit characterized by a degree of flexibility such as to beentirely comfortable to the wearer, and yet possessed of In the case oftreatment of fabricsor textiles for industrial and mechanical uses,'forexample *suchas friction materials employed for brake fabric, and toattain a more or less thorough 'peneration thereof by the treatingmaterial. In

' such cases, application may be effected by applying the material ina'liquid or semi-liquid state,

effected by the use of a sufficient amount of solvent. A certain higherdegree of pressure than heretofore mentioned, is desirable, andapplication of the impregnating orv treating material may be effectedwith the aid of rollers, calendering equip-- ment, or in any othersuitable manner.

Proceeding now to a description of certain materials which, amongothers, have been found suitable for the treatment of fabrics to producethe results heretofore expressed, we have eliminated as being lessdesirable for application to wash fabrics, those substances which willeither discolor a .printed or white textile material; also thosesubstances which, because of their chemical nature, will not withstandrepeated action of hot water and/or laundry chemicals, and the heatincidental to ironing and pressing operations. The commercial success ofa textile coating to fulfill the present objects, requires that itwithstand without objectionahly changing its physical characteristics, asubstantial number of washings .under usual laundry conditions, and atthe same time'sha-ll retain a substantial degree of flexibility andcloth-stiffening effect. It is recognized that -many adhesives areavailable, but that for use on launde'rable goods, very few fulfill anysubstantial number of the above requirements. Gum arabic, dextrin orglue are all extremely water-soluble. Most resin are too brittle, andusually possess such a depth of color as to be unsatisfactory inexhibiting adverse effects on the color of washable fabrics. latex, orin so.-called solution, due to its changes in the presence of heat, asin ironing. Acetyl cellulose is considerably affected by water,-and isparticularly susceptible to the action of alkalies employed as, or inconnection with, laundry chemicals. After numerous experiments it .has-

been found that certain of the aromatic cellulose ethers may be utilizedWithout extensive com-'- pounding for the treatmentof certain classes offabrics, particularly those which are employed in situ without requiringto'be extensively flexed in use. Dibenzyl cellulose may be indicated asan example of a material particularly suited for the impregnation ofcertain idustrial fabrics. The

treating material may be dissolved in a suitable solvent or mixturethereof in an-amout to render it sufficiently fluid to be forced intothe fabric. This mode .of treatment, with or without modifications, maybe employed for fabrics utilized in single thicknesses, or in multipleply structures of such anature and to be so utilized that a high degreeof flexibility is not required. Certain of the cellulose ethers,including benzyl cellulose, while water insoluble, when utilized withoutcompounding or plasticizi ng, exhibit a certain brittleness'and atendency to crack in case the textile is to be flexed frequently orthrough any substantial angle. I

It has accordingly been found by experiment desirable to modify byadmixed material the benzyl celluloseor equivalent,'when the compoundis'to be employedas'a coating, mm or adhesive,

carried on the surface of the associated fabric..

Rubber is not satisfactory either as Among other compounds suitable forthe coating or adhesive treatment say of collar fabrics, cuffs, etc.,our preference is to utilize the following:

A base consisting of a cellulose ether, and by portion of theplasticizer, enables a control of flexibility and hence the stiffeningefiect pro- ,duced by the resulting coating. The plas-' ticizereliminates much of the tendency for the coating to crack, even whensubjected to repeated flexing and repeated laundering. For this purposewe prefer to'utilize a formaldehyde-toluene sulfonamid condensationproduct, the preferred proportion being four grams in a compoundineluding ninety-six grams of dibenzyl cellulose;

A filler or pigment is preferably added, the choice of this materialdepending somewhat upon the required physical characteristics of 'thedesired compound. For this purpose, our preferenceyparticularly when thecompound is to be employed with white or light colored textile fabrics,is a' mixture consisting of the following,-for compounding with theindicated amounts of the base and plasticizer: Titanium oxide 17.5grams, zinc oxide 22.5 grams. It will be appreciated, of course, thatthese pigments or filler materials may be replaced'by otherwater-insoluble pigments such as barium sulfate, lithopone, or mixturesthereof; 1

As a solvent for the dibenzyl cellulose base and r I a vehicle and/orsolvent for the remaining ingredients, we have found to be admirablysuitable,

a mixture of toluene: and ethyl alcohol in the proportion, say of 240cc. of toluene and 40 cc. of ethyl alcohol;

A tinting material may be optionally employed,

employed on white or light color goods. This should be water insoluble,and we have found that for use onwhite or light fabrics, a blue orpurple dye such as P. anthraquinone iris R 'in case it. is desired toalter or heighten thecolor I .of the compound, particularly when it isto be base, may be employed as a complementary.

color to enhance the apparent whiteness, and avoid any objectionablecontrasts between treated and untreated fabric portions. of the tintingsubstance isregulated according to the nature and amount of pigmentemployed, and. the tinting effects of the-pigment. Usually an amount of.015 gram will be-sufllcient when utilized in the noted P oportions ofthe other ingredients.

The amount 1 It may here be noted that all of the ingredients ofthedescribed cloth treating compound are susceptible of being tinted, dyedor otherwise colored to attain or match any usual, desired shade, sothat the mixture may be employed with any of the usual textiles withoutadverse or contrasting color effects. A colored compound may erablywater insoluble, in the solvent employed in compounding the treatingmaterial.

As'to the order of steps in preparing the ingredients above noted, ithas been found convenient to mix the benzyl cellulose with the solvent,in which the solid softens, swells, and then goes into solution. To thissolution is added'the plasticizer, and then the pigment or fillermaterials. It is suggested that the tinting material, if utilized, beadded to the solvent and employed in amounts requisite to effect thedesired shading of the resulting mixture or compound.

In the application of the treatingmaterial or compound to a fabric, thesolvents evaporate in a very short time after the material is spread ina thin layer upon the textile. The film then takes an initial set, andis firmly united to the cloth. Following this initial set, and uponevaporation of the greater part of the solvent, the coated fabric issubjected to pressure, accompanied by a moderate heat, say of the orderof 100 C. to 130 C., under the influence of which the coating materialsoftens slightly, retaining its adhesive qualities, and serving, as inthe case ply heat and pressure, but merely to impregnate evenly united.wrinkling is thus minimized, as

or coat the fabric. with the compound. in a liquid vehicle; Suchprocesses are contemplated for example in the treatment of sail cloth,awning materials, canvas and other woven fabric generally.

The use of a thermoplastic substance havin the characteristics describedabove as being admirably possessed by dibenzyl cellulose, isparticularly desirable in a cementing or stiffening material for usewith launderable goods. Experiments have indicated that if the dissolvedbase together with. any other compounding ingredients be carefully andcorrectly applied to the fabric, practi-' cally no separation occursbetween the fabric and coating material during the useful life, say of agarment. If, however, any such separation does occur, the fabric andadjacent film of plastic material, upon being subjected to ironingpressures and temperatures, will once again become be produced bydissolving a dye, which is prefwell as any objectionable distortion inshape or conformity of garment adjuncts such as collars and cuffs,during the periods of wear.

It willbeunderstood, of course, that considerable variations from theingredients 'and proportions above set forth may be made withoutrendering the resulting compound unsatisfactory for its intendedpurpose. a For example, all or part of the toluene and alcohol preferredas solvents, may be replaced by other solvents or mixtures thereof, for

other plasticizers, such as dibutyl phthalate or triphenyl phosphate.Still other condensation products such as glycerol-phthalic anhydridcondensation products may be employed. Obviously, the pigments for whicha preferance has been expressed, may be replaced by a number of othersuitable, known or commercially available materials. Accordingly, theforegoing specific description of preferred ingredients and proportionsis to be understood solely as illustrative of one ex.- ample of asuitable fabric treatingcompoun'd, and is not to be understood aslimiting the invention except as required by the scope of the appendedclaims; It will also be understood that the mode or modes of applicationof the material to the fabric may be varied-within wide limits accordingto various natures of the fabric and the coating and/or impregnatingmaterials. We claim:

1. As a composition of matter, a textile adhesive which is white incolorand unaffected by repeated laundering operations such as by boilingin slight- 1y alkaline aqueous soap solution and subsequent ironing,including dibenzyl cellulose, and a condensation product of formaldehydeand toluene sulfonamid in the approximate proportions of 96 parts ofdibenzyl cellulose to. 4 parts of the said condensation products.

2. A treated textile including 'a layer of cloth and a film carried bysaid cloth, said film including a base of a cellulose ether, awater-white plasticizer therefor comprising the condensation product offormaldehyde and toluene sulfonamid of amount approximating 4% by weightof the said base, and a white mineral filler.

.3. A garment adjunct embodying a layer of white cloth and a layer ofstiffening 'material thereon including a mixture of approximately 96parts of dibenzyl cellulose, 4 parts of the condensation product offormaldehyde and toluene sulfonamid, and 40 parts of a white mineralfiller. JULES BEBIE.

GEORGE L. DOELLING.

.example ethyl lactate, xylene, and others. Also the formaldehydesulfonamid condensation prod-- -uct may be replaced by an equivalentamount of

